Travel: Summer heaven in a winter wonderland!

There’s much more to the French Alps than skiing, Stephanie Maskery discovers as she samples some summer lakeside pursuits in the Savoie.
Hautecombe Abbey overlooking Lake Bourget, France. PA Photo/Stephanie Maskery.Hautecombe Abbey overlooking Lake Bourget, France. PA Photo/Stephanie Maskery.
Hautecombe Abbey overlooking Lake Bourget, France. PA Photo/Stephanie Maskery.

Slipping into the warm sparkling waters, I feel the tensions of the modern world slipping away while, on the shoreline, children skip playfully in the sand as their mothers bask in the calming 30-degree sunshine.

I drift leisurely on top of the cobalt blue waves, watching towering mountains and lush greenery bob in and out of view. It could be an exotic Caribbean getaway but the water is fresh - Alpine fresh. I’m in the French Alps.

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Lake Bourget is France’s largest natural lake. Often referred to as an inland sea, it boasts 10 beaches where families can relax on its sandy shores or take a dip in the surprisingly warm waters without the sting of salt.

The Savoie region is better known for its world-class ski resorts, including Val d’Isere and Courchevel, than its sunbathing attractions.

But with summer temperatures often reaching the 30s, from June to September skiers are replaced with hikers and bikers keen to explore the region’s well-established trails. There’s also plenty to enjoy without breaking into a sweat.

We’d arrived earlier in the morning from Geneva airport which is just under an hour’s drive to the lake’s biggest town, Aix-les-Bains, an ancient spa town at the foot of the Alps and our home for the next few days.

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Back in the lake, a gentle nip at my feet signals some inquisitive fish have gone a bite too far and it’s time to explore the area. We head to the lake’s star attraction, Hautecombe Abbey, a former Cistercian monastery dating from the 12th century which is still used as a retreat today.

Perched on a rocky outcrop, its gothic design complete with towering lighthouse is best approached by boat, and tours regularly operate from Aix-les-Bains.

With 40 princes and princesses of Savoie buried here, it’s a favourite with history enthusiasts.

The whole area has a rich history, particularly the medieval town of Chambery. It was once the seat of the Dukes of Savoie, the longest-surviving royal house in Europe, whose heirs are linked to our own royal heritage.

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The buildings here are a brilliant mix of ancient tradition and modern vision, with old Italian-style porticoes and sleek new designs.

We take a guided tour through the town’s winding, narrow backstreets to see where the great philosopher and writer Jean-Jacques Rousseau spent his days with his first and greatest love, Francoise-Louise de Warens, a woman 13 years his senior. The couple’s house, Les Charmettes, on the outskirts of Chambery, is now a museum dedicated to Rousseau.

A highlight of the tour is the city’s cathedral, dating from the 15th century. Built on old swamplands and supported by 30,000 poles, this remarkable building contains Europe’s largest collection of trompe l’oeil - trick of the eye - paintings. These optical wonders depict windows, battle scenes and intricate scrollwork that to the naked eye appear carved from stone but are in fact 2D paintings.

While it’s easy to get lost in so much history, it’s hard to ignore the region’s staggering backdrop of jagged, snow-capped peaks and deep blue skies and my partner is keen to pursue the promise of a bike ride through the region’s beautiful vineyards.

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As someone who prefers to watch the Tour de France on TV with a glass of sauvignon blanc, rather than try my best Cavendish sprints, I am somewhat dreading this outing. Going downhill I can do, but up?

Yet, gliding past golden fields bursting with corn, the jaw-dropping panorama of Chartreuse National Park opens up before me, wildflowers blooming in shades of pink and yellow along the cycle path.

I spot a hill looming ahead, putting my head down ready for the onslaught. Fortunately it’s not as arduous as I fear, thanks mainly to the electric motor on my e-bike.

I’ve paid 10 Euros per day for the bike (twice the price of conventional bike hire) but it’s worth every penny. You can adjust the power setting to help you out as much as you want and turn it off completely when cycling on flat terrain.

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These magic little bikes allow you to go further and explore more of the region’s natural beauty without having to worry about any big climbs or overstretched legs.

We hire ours from the station in Chambery and follow the widely-used and easy to follow cycle paths that lead out into the countryside. Our destination is the beautiful lake Saint Andre, just under an hour’s ride south of the town.

The lake nestles beneath the 900m steep-sided cliff face of Mont Granier. Lakeside restaurant Le Saint Andre is the perfect spot to relax and sample a glass of Apremont white wine made with the Jacquere grape grown in this region.

Spurred on by my Olympic achievements on the e-bike, I decide to step up the challenge following day - a bigger lake on a normal bike. We embark on a trip to Lake Annecy, possibly France’s most iconic and cherished lake. It’s a stunning sight, with mountains reflected in the blue waters along with the colourful multi-coloured buildings of the eponymous romantic medieval town.

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Luckily for me, the lake’s cycle path is fairly flat and well signposted. Bikes can be rented from Sevrier Sports for 11 Euros for a half-day and you can pootle along at leisure, stopping at one of the lakeside cafes to watch the boats and swimmers at play.

As we head back to Geneva, our final stop is Yvoire, a picturesque fishing village dating back more than 700 years and famous for its flowers, which burst from borders and window boxes. Its strategic position on the shores of the vast Lake Geneva, which is more than 45 miles long, has ensured a colourful history and a castle Disney would be proud of.

We are here to visit the lovingly-tended Garden of Five Senses, inspired by designs from the Middle Ages, where visitors are encouraged to feel the velveteen leaves of lamb’s ears and the spiky barbs of thistles. Best of all is the smell zone, which contains plants that smell of chocolate, pineapple and Coca-Cola - just remember they don’t taste like that.

With the scent of Yvoire’s flowers still in the air we reluctantly make our way to the airport, which will be filled with skiers and snowboarders in a few months’ time.

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It may be an area famed for its winter sports, but with its stunning lakes, beautiful vineyards and rich history, Savoie Mont Blanc holds it own as the perfect summer paradise.

Travel facts

:: Stephanie Maskery travelled to Savoie as a guest of Savoie Mont Blanc Tourism Board. For more information on accommodation and activities in the area, visit www.savoie-mont-blanc.com.

:: easyJet offers flights from Manchester and London to Geneva from £48 one way. Visit www.easyjet.com.

:: Accommodation at the three-star hotel Aquakub in Aix-les-Bains (www.aquakub.com) ranges from 90-185 Euros per night.

:: Information on e-bike rental can be found at www.velostation-chambery.fr