Travel: Red Sea – the wonders of Egypt

The calm, sun-flecked waters of the Red Sea looked inviting as I zipped up my wetsuit, snapped on mask and fins, and clambered over the edge of the boat. Balancing on the last rung of the ladder, I took a deep breath and jumped, landing with a splash next to my instructor Nicci.

Any last-minute butterflies about diving for the first time evaporated as I let gravity, and my lead weights, take over.

I was on a Try Dive - a brief introduction to Scuba that gives total beginners, like me, the chance to experience diving without spending precious holiday time in the learner pool.

My life (or at least the next 20 minutes of it) was now entirely in the hands of Nicci, who would be regulating my air supply, and ensuring we didn’t drift off course and resurface in Saudi Arabian waters.

Organised through my hotel, Taba Heights, this was my first adventure during my week-long holiday in Egypt.

We were on a boat moored just a few kilometres south of our resort, located on the coast of Egypt’s popular Sinai peninsula, a 40 minute drive from Taba International airport, or three hours from Sharm El Shiekh. And, as our hotel was at the north eastern end of Egypt’s Sinai peninsula, we were also just a 20-minute bus ride from the Israeli border and a short ferry hop across the Gulf of Aqaba to Jordan. As if that wasn’t enough, clearly visible on the horizon, shimmering under the bright Middle Eastern sun, was the Saudi coastline.

So although I’d promised myself seven days spent flopping on the sand with a thriller in one hand and a cocktail in the other, the local area was proving far too interesting to ignore.

Having peeled off my wetsuit and clutching a cup of sweet, black tea, I rejoined the rest of the group aboard the boat to exchange tales of the incredible marine life we had seen. My favourite fish, I explained eagerly, was purple, green and pink, with an Angelina Jolie pout.

That night, eager to get stuck into the serious business of relaxation, I tried out some Sakara Gold.

Sakara is one of several lagers brewed in Egypt, which although a predominantly Muslim country, has a generally relaxed attitude towards alcohol.

The ancient Egyptians were keen winemakers and I was surprised to discover their legacy lingers today, with several vineyards producing some delicious drops.

However, mindful of my day trip to Petra the next morning, I resisted the temptation to crack open a bottle of 2007 Omar Khayyam, a dry white wine named after the 11th century Persian scholar.

After a smooth half hour Catamaran ride across the Gulf of Aqaba, we were met in Jordan by our chirpy Bedouin guide Ibrahim, who introduced us to his catchphrase: “Mashi Mashi”. This translates roughly as “Okey Dokey”, and, when bellowed loudly enough, proved a useful tool for rounding up our 30-strong group.

As the bus chugged for hours along the empty Kings Highway, I had time to absorb the spectacular lunar landscape around Wadi Rum, where Lawrence of Arabia was filmed.

Sandstone jebels (cliffs) soared to heights of more than 1,700 metres, towering over Bedouin tents scattered across the wide valley floors like giants watching over their flocks.

Wadi Rum is home to several Bedouin tribes still clinging to their traditional nomadic way of life. Ibrahim explained that while all Jordanians are proud of their Bedouin heritage, few live in tents or caves all year round, though many still keep animals for meat, milk and transport.

As we drove through the region, I saw evidence of this in the endless numbers of flat-roofed concrete homes being constructed, with camels, goats and donkeys tethered nearby nibbling at any tufts of greenery they could find sprouting amid the dust.

Later, running the gauntlet of street sellers and souvenir shops selling Indiana Jones memorabilia, I managed to reach the top of the 1.2km canyon leading to the ancient city of Petra without buying any mugs or T-shirts featuring the swashbuckling archaeologist.

But the walk down the narrow, winding gorge, known as the Siq, towards ‘The Treasury’ where the climactic scene of Indiana Jones And The Last Crusade was filmed proved an adventure in itself, as horse-drawn buggies and camels clattered by.

Hidden amid the rugged Shara mountains for centuries, Petra was rediscovered in 1812 by Swiss explorer Johann Ludwig Burckhardt and declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985.

It’s easy to understand why local tribes kept the city a secret for so many years. Carved into the salmon pink sandstone more than 2,000 years ago by the wealthy Nabataean tribe, Petra boasts hundreds of buildings, including royal tombs, theatres and temples, as well as an intricate system of pipes, aqueducts and reservoirs to supply the water.

Most impressive of all is ‘The Treasury’, or Al-Khazneh, with its colossal, 43-metre high facade and steps leading up to classical columns.

But after a wonderful day exploring, I was determined to get back on track with my relaxing holiday. And a quick stroll around the grounds of the rambling, five-star Taba Heights with its lush, bougainvillea-draped gardens, saltwater lagoon, Olympic-size lap pool and spa treatments, such as the Cleopatra milk bath, convinced me I should be making the most of the hotel’s facilities.

There was also the resort’s 18-hole golf course to tackle. But as a total newcomer to the sport, this proved a challenge too far. “How hard can it be?” I muttered as my golf club failed to connect with the little white ball and thudded into the turf for the umpteenth time.

Smiling encouragingly, Jonathan, the golf instructor, adjusted my swing a fraction. Suddenly, to my astonishment, the ball sailed into the air past the 100-metre marker and dropped onto the green. “You’ll be a pro in no time,” he assured me. His patience had certainly paid off, but I wasn’t about to quit the day job.

My week in the Sinai Peninsula rushed past in a whirl of activities, including quad biking through the desert and a second day trip, this time to the Dead Sea and Jerusalem.

But somehow I managed to see these fascinating sights without losing too much sunbathing time.

Key facts - Egypt’s Sinai Peninsula

:: Best for: Divers, golfers, beach bums and culture vultures.

:: Time to go: Hot, dry summers and balmy winters make the Sinai a perfect getaway at any time of the year.

:: Don’t miss: Day trips to Jerusalem and Petra, and watching the sunset from nearby Castle Zaman.

:: Need to know: A desert climate means evenings can be chilly, so have a jumper handy.

:: Don’t forget: Suncream and swimming gear.

Travel facts

:: Rosamond Hutt was a guest of Longwood Holidays, which offers seven nights’ half board accommodation at the five-star Hyatt Regency Taba Heights from £585 per person, based on a mid-August departure. Price includes flights ex-Gatwick, accommodation, transfers, all taxes and surcharges, upgrade to seaview room, 15% discount on all beverages and 25% discount on massage treatments and products.

:: Regional departures include Manchester from £655, and Birmingham from £635, departing in late August.

:: Reservations: 0844 770 4898/www.longwoodholidays.co.uk. For more information on Taba Heights, visit www.tabaheights.com or email [email protected].

:: Day trips to Petra can be booked with Longwood Holidays, from 264 dollars (around £165), including all transfers, a ferry trip from Taba to Aqaba, buffet lunch, entrance fees and an English-speaking guide. Day trips to Jerusalem and the Dead Sea from 149 dollars (around £93), including all transfers (one coach transfer and one flight) plus services of an English-speaking guide. Both prices exclude border fees.