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A classic Sicilian dish before we leave the Mediterranean.
In recent weeks we have been considering the Mediterranean's traditions and superstitions, in particular the notion of the 'evil eye'.
I have mentioned that this is prevalent all over the Mediterranean, but I think it is fair to say that it also appears in some form practically everywhere in the world. Certainly, there are equivalents not only in the folk history of the Mediterranean going back to ancient Greece and Rome but also in modern Jewish, Islamic, Buddhist and Hindi traditions the world over.
There are of course numerous local variations. Arabs believe that the colour blue will afford protection for men and animals from the evil eye, while various amulets and gold coins provide extra insurance.
The main targets for the evil eye are usually children, however.
Embodying as they do the precious hopes of families and, by extension, whole nations, these are the victims that society must protect at all costs. So deep are these traditions that in certain regions a popular folk tale motif is the father who believes that he possesses the evil eye, and so blinds himself to avoid bringing misfortune on his own sons.
Anyone could possess the evil eye, but the most likely candidates were always strangers, old women (especially if thought to be 'witches'), or grotesque or deformed persons such as hunchbacks, with the motive force generally being envy.
Thus it may be supposed that the tradition of the evil eye performed two important social functions: firstly, the control and enforcement of modesty on the basis that any ostentatious show of beauty, intelligence or prowess in any particular field would be liable to attract its unwelcome attentions; and secondly, the provision of an acceptable social 'excuse' for the ostracism of the classes of people listed above, who were generally regarded as undesirable in most communities.
This week is the last in my series on the Mediterranean, and I did not want to leave the region without visiting Sicily, the island that lies right at its heart, n ot only geographically but also, in many respects, culturally.
This week's recipe is a classic Sicilian dish. Next week we return to Britain, when I have an announcement to make.
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Turtera
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INGREDIENTS serves 4
1 lamb shank bone
2 carrots, 1 stick celery and 1 onion, roughly chopped
3 bay leaves
2oz/50g unsalted butter, lard or other shortening
1lb/450g ricotta, sliced
4oz/110g pecorino, 3 months old and grated
4 tbsp fresh marjoram
salt and freshly-ground black pepper
1lb/450g fresh cavatini pasta
Method
1. Roast the lamb bone with the chopped vegetables at 180C/350F for 30 minutes. Transfer to a large pan filled with salted water and add the bay leaves. Bring to the boil, simmer for two hours and strain.
2. Bring the bouillon back to the boil and add the cavatina pasta. Cook for five minutes and drain, reserving the bouillon.
3. Place half the cooked pasta in a greased dish and arrange half the sliced ricotta on top. Season with salt and pepper and add the pecorino and the marjoram. Add the remaining pasta in another layer and then the remainder of the ricotta.
4. Pour the reserved bouillon around the pasta and place in the oven at 180C/350F for 30 minutes. Remove and serve.
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Weather for Bedford
Sunday 27 May 2012
Today
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Temperature: 10 C to 25 C
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